Wiring a home office: Cat6, power, and what older houses make difficult
Wired networking is not about peak speed any more — it is about a connection that behaves the same at 2pm as it did at 9am, and about putting access points where they should go rather than where an outlet happens to be. In an older house the interesting problem is not the cable, it is the route.
About this article
Quick answer — the 30-second version
- Run TWO cables to every location you bother to wire. The labour and the route are shared, so the second cable is nearly free; going back later is not.
- Cat6 is the sensible default. Labour dwarfs cable cost, which makes upgrading the category the cheapest future-proofing on offer.
- PoE is the underrated part in an older house: it puts access points and cameras where coverage needs them rather than where an outlet exists.
- The electrical half matters too — a dedicated circuit for the office stops the desk sharing capacity with whatever else dips the lights.
What wired actually buys you now
The case for wiring a house has changed. It used to be about speed; now it is mostly about CONSISTENCY. Wi-Fi shares a medium with every device in your house and a fair number outside it, so its behaviour changes through the day for reasons you cannot see or control. A cable is unaffected by your neighbour's evening.
That matters for a narrow set of things and not at all for the rest. A video call that cannot drop, a desktop that never moves, a media device, and — most importantly — the access points that serve everything wireless. Wiring those and leaving phones and tablets on Wi-Fi is the sensible split. Anyone suggesting you wire everything is solving a problem you do not have.
Structured, not ad hoc
Structured cabling means every outlet gets its own dedicated run back to one central point — a home run — terminated on a patch panel at one end and a jack at the other. The alternative, chaining from room to room, uses less cable and creates a system where one change breaks something two rooms away.
The practical benefit is that the system stays useful when the requirements change, which they will. What plugs in where becomes a patching decision at the central point rather than a cabling job. In a house you intend to stay in, that is the whole reason to do this properly rather than cheaply.
The decisions that actually matter
- TWO DROPS MINIMUM at every wired location. The second one costs very little once the route exists and it is the single most common regret when omitted
- CAT6 as the default. Cat5e is adequate for much of today and hard to justify new; Cat6a earns its place on long runs and for PoE devices, where its construction handles heat better
- THE CENTRAL POINT — power, ventilation, and access you will not resent. Garage, utility closet or laundry generally beats an attic, where heat shortens equipment life
- PoE for access points and cameras, so placement follows coverage rather than the outlet map
- A DEDICATED CIRCUIT for the office itself, which is the electrical half of this and the part people forget
- LABELLING at both ends, which costs nothing during the work and saves an hour every time anything changes afterwards
Power and data are planned together
Data cable and electrical cable do not share a bore or an enclosure, and separation is maintained where they run parallel. That is a requirement rather than a preference, and it also happens to be good for signal quality.
The practical consequence is about sequencing rather than restriction: the two route plans have to be made together, because retrofitting one along the other's path is how you end up with compromises in both. It is also the strongest argument for doing network and electrical work in the same phase in an older house, where the routes are the expensive part.
What older houses change
The cable is cheap and the labour is not, and in an older house almost all the labour is in getting from A to B.
- PLASTER AND LATH — slower to open, messier, and the making-good is real work rather than a patch and a sand
- FIRE BLOCKING between floors, which interrupts the vertical routes that look obvious on a floor plan
- RETROFITTED INSULATION filling the cavities a cable would otherwise drop through
- ADDITIONS — a house extended two or three times has framing behind the walls that does not match what the rooms suggest, and route planning gets done partly by discovery
- MATERIALS in very old homes that need assessing before anyone opens a wall. That is a specialist question, it gets established before work starts rather than during it, and we will say so if we think it applies
None of this makes the work hard to do well. It does mean the quote is mostly about routes, which is why a walk-through beats a room count, and why a fixed price given over the phone for an older house should be treated with suspicion.
The electrical side of a home office
Worth treating as its own question rather than an afterthought to the network.
If the office lights dip when the heat pump or the dryer starts, the desk is sharing a circuit with something large. A DEDICATED CIRCUIT removes that interaction and gives the room clean capacity — and it is straightforward to add while walls are open for cabling, and considerably less so once they are closed. Add enough outlets that nothing runs on a daisy chain of power strips, which is both a safety improvement and the reason people stop tripping over extension leads.
A UPS for the network equipment is the last piece and the cheapest. A short outage stops dropping calls and equipment gets a graceful shutdown rather than an abrupt one. It is usually the thing people add after their first bad week, and there is no reason to wait for that week.
Two ways to check. Both take a minute.
Check what applies. Two or more usually means doing this properly is worth more than patching around it.
Photos of the rooms you want wired, the likely central location, and the panel with its cover ON help us plan routes before the visit. Do not remove the panel cover.
Email us a photoEvery quote is free. The range depends too much on your home to fake it.
We do not publish a figure for this, because in an older house the price is almost entirely about routes rather than about drops — the same two rooms can differ enormously depending on what is between them. What we will do is walk the routes, tell you what is straightforward and what is not, and quote against the actual paths. Be wary of a fixed price given over the phone for an older house; it is being guessed. Cost ranges are pulled from real Santa Cruz County job data at render, not made up here.
Plan the routes before the drop count.
Decide where the central point goes first — power, ventilation, access you will not resent — because that determines every route in the house. Then work backwards from coverage: where do access points need to be, and which fixed devices genuinely benefit from a cable. Run two drops to each of those, choose Cat6 unless a long run argues for more, and add the office circuit while the walls are open. If any other electrical work is planned, do this in the same phase.
Here’s the honest path — wherever it leads.
We'd rather you get the right outcome than the Sunrise outcome. Some of this points away from us on purpose.
Get the routes walked
A free whole-home inspection covers the electrical side and gives us the layout context for cabling routes — what is straightforward, what is not, and where a dedicated office circuit would land.
Schedule a free inspectionSmart home in the same house?
The neutral question and the box-volume question decide what is possible at the wall, and they are worth answering in the same visit as the cabling plan.
Smart home in an older houseOutside Santa Cruz County?
Find a CSLB-licensed contractor and verify at cslb.ca.gov. Ask for the routes to be walked before any price is given — in an older house, a quote produced from a room count rather than a walk-through is a guess.
13 questions. Real answers.
The questions readers actually ask about this specific problem, answered in full.
Is wired networking still worth it when Wi-Fi is this good?
What is structured cabling?
Cat5e, Cat6 or Cat6a?
How many cables should I run to each location?
What is PoE and why does it matter in an old house?
Where should the central point be?
Can data cable run alongside electrical cable?
Does a home office need its own circuit?
What makes older houses harder?
Is there anything that would stop the work?
Should I do this at the same time as other electrical work?
What about a UPS?
Do I need a permit?
Sources
- [1]California Electrical Code (Title 24, Part 3) — 2025 edition, effective January 1 2026 — 2023 NEC base with California amendments, including the articles governing communications circuits and their separation from power conductors.accessed 2026-08-03
- [2]NEC Article 800 — general requirements for communications systems — Covers installation and separation requirements for communications cabling in dwellings.accessed 2026-08-03
- [3]Santa Cruz County Building Division — permit authority — Unincorporated county, including Live Oak, Pleasure Point, Soquel, Aptos and Felton.accessed 2026-08-03
The cable is cheap. The route is the job.
Have the paths walked before anyone quotes a number — in an older house that is the difference between a real price and an optimistic one.