Outlet installation is adding a receptacle where there is not one. Where the nearby circuit has room for the load, we tap it and run to the new location. Where it does not, the outlet needs a new circuit back to the panel, which is a bigger job and we say so before you commit rather than after. Which of those two your outlet is depends entirely on what is already connected to the circuit next to it, which is why the first thing we do is test rather than guess.
What every new outlet needs
Every new receptacle in a house has to clear three things. It needs an equipment ground. In dwelling units it has to be tamper-resistant, which is the shuttered construction that stops a child pushing something into one slot. And it has to sit where the code puts it — there are spacing rules for how far apart receptacles can be along a wall so that nothing needs an extension cord, and tighter rules above kitchen counters. That third one is why we ask where the furniture goes before we cut. An outlet in a technically legal spot that ends up behind a sofa has solved nothing.
Routes in older houses
In older county housing the interesting part is never the device. It is the route and the wiring you find. A 1930s Westside bungalow with plaster and lath, no attic above the kitchen, and original two-wire circuits with no ground presents a genuinely different problem from a 1970s Live Oak tract house with an open attic. Fire blocking in the stud bay, balloon framing, and stucco exteriors all decide what is possible and what it costs. That is what we look at first, and it is why the answer to 'can you put an outlet there' starts with opening a wall cavity rather than with a price.
What we do not do
On what we do not do: we cut in cleanly and small, but patching plaster, drywall, or tile is a finish trade and it is outside our scope. We will tell you before we open anything how many holes there will be and where, and we can recommend someone to close them.