A hot tub or spa circuit is a dedicated 240V run from your electrical panel out to the spa pad, with GFCI protection, a disconnect within sight of the tub, and bonding where the code calls for it. Fifty amps is the common size for a portable spa, but the number that matters is on the equipment nameplate. We read the plate and the manufacturer's instructions before we size a breaker or pull a wire.
The disconnect is the part homeowners are usually surprised by. Code requires a way to cut power to the spa that is readily reachable, within sight of the tub, and set back from the water by the required distance — so nobody has to reach across the water or walk back into the house to shut it off. On most jobs that is a weatherproof outdoor enclosure holding the GFCI breaker and serving as the disconnect in one box. It is not optional, and an inspector will look for it.
Bonding is the other piece. Metal near the spa that a wet person could touch gets tied together so everything sits at the same electrical potential. Self-contained portable spas that are listed for it already carry some of that inside the cabinet. Which parts still need bonding on your install depends on the unit and on the deck or pad it sits on, so we confirm it against the listing rather than guessing.
Two Santa Cruz County realities shape most of these jobs. First, panel capacity: a spa is a large 240V load, and plenty of county homes are still on a 100A service already carrying a range and a dryer. Run the Panel Load Calculator or have a tech check it in person — sometimes the honest answer is that the spa circuit waits behind a 200A service upgrade. Second, weather: a spa circuit lives outdoors year-round, and within a few blocks of the water the enclosures, fasteners, and fittings have to be chosen for salt air or they will not last.