An electric sauna needs its own 240V circuit. A typical sauna heater is on a 40-amp circuit, but the heater itself sets the size: the nameplate gives the amperage and the minimum circuit, and the breaker and conductors follow from there along with whatever the manufacturer's instructions require. We read the plate and the manual first. If you have chosen a heater but not bought it yet, send us the model number and we will size the circuit around it.
Wiring inside the hot room
A sauna is dry heat, so it is not a hot tub. It does not carry the water-bonding regime a spa does, though a hardwired sauna heater still needs a disconnect nearby, and that is often a spa panel. Whether it needs GFCI protection depends on the manufacturer's spec. What a sauna carries instead is heat. Inside the hot room, wiring follows the manufacturer's instructions — generally high-temperature-rated conductors, specific routing away from the heater, and the control head and sensor placed exactly where the manual puts them. The details inside the room matter as much as the circuit that feeds it, and they are what an inspector will hold the work against.
Outdoor and detached saunas
Outdoor barrel saunas and detached sauna rooms change the job. A feed to a separate structure is a different scope from a circuit inside the house: it may need a trench, a weatherproof disconnect at the building, and in some cases a small subpanel out there rather than a single circuit — particularly if you also want lights and a receptacle. Which one applies depends on what you are feeding and how far it sits from the house, and it is much cheaper to decide before the pad is poured than after.
Whether your service can carry it
The other thing to settle early is whether your service can carry it. A sauna heater is a substantial 240V load, and a lot of county housing stock is still on a 100A panel with no spare slots. Run the Panel Load Calculator before you order a heater — it is far easier to choose a heater that fits the service you have than to find out after delivery that a service upgrade has to come first. Small plug-in infrared and low-wattage units are a different story: if yours runs on a standard 120V receptacle, you may not need this work at all, and we will tell you that rather than sell you a circuit.